If surfing is already a challenging sport, surfing on giant waves is even more so: it is the athlete’s extreme challenge to nature, requiring skill and preparation, as well as a physique that can withstand the “shock” of big waves

The hunt for giant waves surged in the second half of the 20th century, thanks to technological innovations that enabled surfers to tackle waves once considered inaccessible. With the introduction of lighter, stronger boards, custom-made wetsuits, and especially with the emergence of tow-in surfing (surfing towed by watercraft), athletes began to push all limits.

And by the way, a question naturally arises: what was the highest wave ever surfed and who performed this feat? Let’s try to answer this curiosity.

Here’s who holds the record for the biggest wave ever surfed

German surfer Sebastian Steudtner broke every record on Oct. 29, 2020, when he rode a 26.21-meter wave in Nazaré, Portugal. His passion for surfing began at a young age of 13, when he decided to move to Hawaii to pursue his dream of becoming a professional surfer. A bold, almost crazy choice, but one that has allowed Sebastian to become one of the world’s most famous surfers. His record was officially recognized in May 2022 in a special ceremony held in front of the Praia do Norte Lighthouse.

Holding the women’s record is Maya Gabeira, who set her own record at the same location in 2020. The Brazilian surfer made surfing history by riding a 22.4-meter wave in February 2020, also in Nazaré. This feat was recognized by Guinness World Records and surpasses her previous record of 20.8 meters set in January 2018.

Read also: 5 tips for first-time surfing beginners

What’s behind the giant waves? The case of Nazaré

Both Sebastian Steudtner and Maya Gabeira achieved their records in the giant waves of Nazaré, famous for being among the largest and most powerful in the world.

The waves at this location are formed in the Nazaré Canyon, one of the deepest marine gorges in Europe, which stretches for about 230 kilometers reaching maximum depths of 5,000 meters. The gorge, which is located near the coast of Nazaré, is a kind of catalyst for the formation of giant waves. When wind and ocean currents interact with the abrupt change in depth caused by the canyon, water is pushed upward, creating waves of impressive size. The presence of a water current moving along the coast in a north-south direction further increases the height and power of the waves as they approach the shore.

The ideal season for observing and riding giant waves is from October to March, when weather and ocean conditions favor the formation of the highest waves. Thanks to modern technology and specific mathematical models, it is possible to predict the arrival of these giant waves about 72 hours in advance, allowing surfers to prepare for these breathtaking challenges.

Big waves are not the prerogative of Nazaré: other spots, in Fuerteventura as elsewhere, can also pose a challenge for daring surfers, those in search of big waves around the world.

How to prepare for giant waves

The two athletes who hold the record for the highest wave ever surfed did not achieve this by chance. In addition to being technically trained surfers, they have the mindset and physique to tackle giant waves. To overcome the challenges posed by waves that can reach record-breaking heights, such as those in Nazaré, surfers must follow a very tough training regimen.

Certainly, physical preparation is crucial: taming the world’s highest waves requires strong muscles and stamina. Specific and consistent exercises are essential to improve strength and agility. In addition, regularly practicing swimming in the pool helps develop the ability to cope with the force of giant waves and the ability to recover quickly in case of a fall.

The mental aspect plays an equally important role. Sports psychology has long provided athletes with tools to boost performance through anxiety management, the use of techniques such as positive visualization and self-talk, setting clear and attainable goals, and creating pre-competition routines that help focus on performance and remain calm under pressure.

Achieving records like those of Sebastian Steudtner and Maya Gabeira requires excellent physical preparation and the right mindset: of course, tackling giant waves is not for everyone. Only professional or otherwise very well prepared surfers can expect to surf the biggest waves: others, they can still enjoy surfing “milder” waves.

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In conclusion

Surfing giant waves is an extreme challenge that only the best athletes can meet: not only excellent technical skills and suitable physical preparation are required, but also strong mental stamina. Some technological innovations (lighter boards, custom-made wetsuits, and tow-in surfing) have made it possible to ride waves that were once considered inaccessible.

Sebastian Steudtner and Maya Gabeira, record holders for the highest wave ever surfed by a man and a woman, came to accomplish this feat thanks to excellent preparation and a mindset adequate to tackle such feats. The giant waves of Nazaré set the stage for records of such magnitude. To achieve such results simple passion

If you want to learn surfing, why not visit our surf school in Fuerteventura? Maybe you will never face the giant waves, but for sure, thanks to our certified instructors, you will learn how to ride the waves and have fun on the board in the beautiful waters of the island.

Takeaways

• Surfing giant waves is the athlete’s ultimate challenge against nature, requiring not only technical skills but also intensive physical and mental preparation. This extreme sport emphasizes the importance of a robust physique and a strong mind to withstand the impact of big waves;
• Technological advances in surfing, including the introduction of lighter and stronger boards, custom-made wetsuits and tow-in surfing, have made waves that were once considered inaccessible accessible. These advances have led to new records, such as Sebastian Steudtner surfing a 26.21-meter wave and Maya Gabeira surfing a 22.4-meter wave, both in Nazaré, Portugal;
• Nazaré’s giant waves, which form because of the Nazaré Canyon, one of the deepest sea gorges in Europe, are famous for being among the largest and most powerful in the world. This spot has become emblematic for surfers trying to set or break records on giant waves;
• To ride giant waves like those in Nazaré, surfers must follow a rigorous training regimen that includes both physical and mental preparation. Muscle strength, agility, endurance, anxiety management and positive visualization are key elements for success in this extreme sport:
• Although surfing giant waves attracts attention for its spectacular feats, it is an activity that requires a high level of experience and preparation. For beginners or those who surf for passion, there are many other fun and accessible surfing experiences, such as those offered by our surf school in Fuerteventura, where you can learn safely and have fun without facing the dangers of big waves.

Frequently asked questions

What was the highest wave ever surfed and who performed this feat?

German surfer Sebastian Steudtner broke every record on Oct. 29, 2020, riding a 26.21-meter wave in Nazaré, Portugal. Holding the female record is Maya Gabeira, who rode a 22.4-meter wave in Nazaré in 2020.

What is behind the giant waves of Nazaré?

Nazaré waves form in the Nazaré Canyon, one of the deepest marine canyons in Europe. When wind and ocean currents interact with the change in depth caused by the canyon, water is pushed upward, creating waves of impressive size.

How to prepare for giant waves?

To tackle giant waves, surfers must follow a training regimen that includes both physical and mental preparation, with specific exercises to improve strength and agility, and psychological techniques to manage anxiety and maintain focus.