A brief guide to the different types of waves, from the smallest to big waves, and the proper technique for riding them, not forgetting that for every wave there is an ideal board

Surfing, as we have said many times, is much more than a sport: it is a way of life, it has its roots in the distant past, it was practiced centuries ago by the indigenous peoples of the Polynesian islands. The appeal of surfing lies not only in the physical and mental challenge, but also in the connection one makes with nature, the sea and the waves.

It is precisely waves that populate the imagination of every self-respecting surfer: the hunt for the perfect wave is one of the goals of enthusiasts, whether experienced or novice.

However, there is no perfect wave for everyone: wave size depends on numerous environmental factors such as wind, currents, and bottom topography, which define the character and shape of the waves, making each surfing session a unique and unrepeatable experience. Knowing the waves is therefore essential for every surfer who experiences the sport in harmony with the ocean, respecting its rhythms and changing conditions.

Types of waves

As mentioned, there is no such thing as just one type of wave-from small waves to big waves, knowing the different types of waves is crucial to knowing how to ride them.

Waves can vary, and not a little, depending on how they form and the type of bottom they break on. Beach waves (beach breaks), for example, form when they break on sandy bottoms. These types of waves are generally less powerful and forgiving of some technical errors, making them ideal for beginners.

In contrast, reef waves (reef breaks) form with rocky or coral bottoms and can also be very fast. They are waves prized by experienced surfers for their ability to form spectacular tubes and long waves. They are unsuitable for beginners: because of their proximity to “hard” bottoms, they are rather dangerous waves.

Another type of wave is the point break, which is formed when the wave meets a protuberance in the terrain such as a land point or an underwater rock formation, creating waves that unravel along the shoreline for long distances. These are long, continuous waves that are appreciated by the most skilled surfers, who are familiar with the board and familiar with the vagaries of the sea.

Finally, we findriver waves (rivermouth waves), which are generated where rivers form well-defined sandbars. They are rare waves, but they can provide superlative surfing experiences: breaking cleanly and neatly, they create the perfect conditions for long, predictable rides. With a little practice, even inexperienced surfers can ride river waves: it is important, however, to know safety measures and how far to go.

Knowing the characteristics of the waves and how they interact with the environment allows surfers to choose the best spots based on their own experience to have fun on the board safely.

Read also: Surfing at night: a spectacular activity exclusively for professionals

How to ride the different types of waves

Riding waves in surfing requires a combination of technical skill and timing, as well as a deep knowledge of how the sea behaves. Each type of wave requires a certain technique, starting with small waves, for which one does not need too much speed in the start and agility in the maneuvers. However, the surfer must master the take-off technique, pushing himself quickly on the board to make the most of the wave’s limited energy. Position on the board should be central, so as to maintain balance and facilitate quick movements and frequent changes of direction, using body weight to guide the board.

Medium waves are more powerful and allow for complex and spectacular maneuvers, such as cuts and jumps. Surfers, in this case, must have excellent wave reading skills to anticipate the wave’s behavior and choose the best spot to perform maneuvers. Equally important is to position oneself well on the board, a little further back to allow for greater responsiveness and control during turns and evolutions.

Finally, riding big waves is extremely challenging and risky, a practice suitable only for experienced surfers. These waves require a cautious approach: a jet ski is often required to do the tow-in so that the surfer can enter the wave at high speeds. The position must be very stable, with the feet firmly anchored to the board and the body tilted downward to resist the powerful force of the wave. Communicating with your partner in the watercraft is crucial: positioning yourself in the optimal spot to catch the wave is the most delicate phase.

In all these situations, safety is paramount. In the water, we always remember to wear a leash (the safety lanyard) so that we don ‘t lose our board, and should have equipment appropriate for the sea conditions. Physical training, assessment of ocean conditions, and respect for the power of the sea are essential to enjoy surfing in a safe and rewarding way.

Small, medium and large waves: which boards are best?

As suggested there are surfboards for small waves, medium waves, and for tackling big waves.

Regarding small waves, ideal boards should have a flat rocker, which facilitates paddling and allows you to catch waves more easily. In addition, a board with a larger volume helps make the most of small waves, offering superior buoyancy that helps maintain good stability. Length can also be an advantage; longboards and midlengths are especially fun in these types of waves, but there are also shorter and wider boards that still offer maneuverability and fun.

The best surfboards for medium waves are distinguished by their ability to balance maneuverability and stability.Surfers with some experience, but who do not yet feel so experienced, can choose boards that combine good front volume with a sharp tail to facilitate paddling and maintain control.

Big wave surfboards,“gun surfboards,” are designed to handle high, powerful waves: they are generally longer, sturdier, and narrower to allow surfers to tackle big waves with greater stability and control.

A distinctive feature of guns is precisely the elongated design, which helps surfers maintain trajectory and cut through the fast and often turbulent waters of big waves. More specialized boards can be configured with multiple fins to increase grip and maneuverability in the most challenging conditions.

Read also: The highest wave ever surfed? Here it is!

In conclusion

Surfing is not simply a sport, but a lifestyle driven by a passion for finding the perfect wave. The intimate relationship with the sea presupposes knowledge of different types of waves, from smaller ones, suitable for beginners, to big waves, intended only for professionals and super-experts.

Knowing how to choose the right board for each type of wave is crucial: from longboards, ideal for small, calm waves, to sophisticated gun surfboards for tackling massive big waves, each piece of equipment offers a specific answer to the different needs of the surfer. The right equipment, combined with good training and respect for the sea, makes for a fulfilling and safe surfing experience.

And speaking of training, if you want to learn to ride the waves, choose our surf school in Fuerteventura: in addition to technique, our instructors will teach you about the sea and what is the right technique to surf the waves safely… and with some skill!

Takeaways

• Surfing is not just a sport, but a true way of life that allows a deep connection with nature. Originating with the Polynesian peoples, surfing offers a physical and mental challenge, but above all a special relationship with the sea and its waves;
• Waves vary greatly based on factors such as wind, currents, and bottom topography. Understanding the characteristics of different types of waves (beach breaks, reef breaks, point breaks, rivermouth waves) is crucial for every surfer, allowing them to choose the best spot based on their experience and environmental conditions;
• Each type of wave requires a particular surfing technique. Small waves require less speed and precision in take-off, while medium waves allow more complex maneuvers. Big waves, reserved for experienced surfers, require a cautious approach and often the aid of a jet ski for tow-in;
• Board choice is critical and varies by wave type. Boards with more volume and a flat rocker are ideal for small waves, while gun surfboards, which are long and narrow, are designed to tackle big waves. Each board is designed to maximize performance and safety in different sea conditions;
• Surfing requires an ongoing commitment to assessing sea conditions and maintaining one’s physical fitness. Using appropriate equipment, such as a leash, and respecting the power of the sea are essential to enjoying surfing safely and responsibly.

Frequently asked questions

What kind of board is best to use for small waves?

For small waves, ideal boards should have a flat rocker to make paddling easier and allow you to catch waves more easily. A board with more volume offers more buoyancy, helping to maintain good stability.

How should one ride a big wave?

Riding a big wave requires a cautious approach and often the use of a tow-in watercraft. You need to maintain a very stable position, with your feet firmly anchored to the board and your body tilted downward to resist the powerful force of the wave.

What are the differences between the various types of waves?

Waves vary depending on the type of bottom they break on and the way they form. Beach breaks break on sandy bottoms and are generally less powerful, ideal for beginners. Reef breaks form on rocky or coral bottoms and can be fast and dangerous, suitable for experienced surfers. Point breaks unravel along the shoreline creating long, continuous waves.